Best. Weekend. Ever.
Yep, I really did have one of the best weekends ever. Consisting of a best friend's bachelorette party, camping near Leavenworth, climbing at Index and celebrating my nephews birthday, you really can't get much better than that. Truly.
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Photo of the bulge move on Roger's Corner.
This is not me, but an example of the climb. |
On top of it all, the climbing we (Jesse and I) did was awesome! So, usually Jesse, being the most amazing and spectacular climber that he is, leads all the routes and I follow and clean the gear. Well... this weekend up at Index, your truly lead the routes! It was a BIG day for me. So what did I climb? Let me provide some details :)
The first pitch of Roger's Corner was the first climb of the day. Rated at 5.7, it is actually a bit of a beast. We must remember that this is Index and ratings at Index are always
way stiffer than compared to say Exit 38 or Vantage. So, the fact that I even
wanted to try leading this route is a BIG deal! And on top of that, as you start the route you are faced with about 10 feet of an off width crack where you have to layback and make the move on up. Laybacking happens to be a difficult technique for me, but I did it and made my way the next section where you have to go up over a bulge that's a bit awkward. This was a stemming move that while was not technically difficult, did require commitment. And after a couple attempts, I finally went for it and made it without falling! It was awesome. What a way to start the day at Index!
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| View of the Great Northern Slab |
After that I was feeling pretty confident... which by the way, is
the key to climbing. I often find that if my attitude for the day is rich in confidence and the willingness to go for the moves, then I climb much better and have more fun. So, I was feeling pretty good after the first pitch of Roger's Corner so Jesse and I decided to go and climb the Great Northern Slab... and I led it! The whole thing, which is just so cool! It's not only the first multi pitch route that I've ever led, but it also had a couple committing moves and required more thought about how and where to place gear. The first pitch went without a hitch. It's a simple 5.4 section that's a little dirty at the lower section and then cleans up nicely at the top. I built my anchor (which is also a new experience for me) and belayed Jesse up. It all went really well. Then after deciding to go for the second pitch, started up towards the crux. It's another bulge move that's also awkward and requires commitment. After pushing myself up and kind of through this bulgy section, I was pretty much home free. I decided to stay on the thiner crack line on the left and made my ascent. Toward the top I began running out of small pro and so decided to go for the top a little more than perhaps I should. I was super close to the anchor and on this not so secure edge when I look over and see a wasp sitting right next to my hand! Ahh! SOOO scary! And I'm on lead about 10 feet above my last piece! Fortunately, as I start shaking, the guy already at the chains told me calmly to focus on my climbing. That brought me back around and I was able to make the moves to the chains. Whew! I made it! Again, I belayed Jesse up and after enjoying the view for a while we rapped down. What a good climb!
All in all, we had a great day climbing. It's really rewarding to start attempting more lead climbing and gaining that confidence to simply go for some climbs that seemed so unattainable even just last year. I'm so thankful to have a husband who is willing to help teach me and encourage me along this journey!
What a great weekend it was. Can't wait to get back out there and try some more.